If you want to follow what's happening in Taiji, I recommend Nicole's blog, A Path to Protect. She's added a video blog where she answers questions. It's a really nice touch.
We are enjoying eight dolphin safe days in a row at the cove. I hope the dolphinermen stay on holiday through new years and resolve to never kill or take dolphins again... a guy can dream.
For the souls of the oceans
(Photo by Karl Goodsell)
The sign says, “All dolphin and whales inside this net are property of the Isana Fisheries Association.” They put this up the day after I left Taiji and it’s been bothering me. One day, up on the point, Andreas Morlok asked, where do the dolphins go after the hunt? I had no idea. These two things worked on me. Where did the dolphins go and who are they the property of? If the dolphins go somewhere else maybe someone else has a claim on them. I asked Jeff Friedman if he knew where the dolphins that swim past Taiji go when the killing season ends. The answer came back, China, Taiwan, Palau, Korea, French Polynesia, and Philippines. Do these countries care that Taiji is claiming these beautiful, intelligent creatures for their own and kill them?
Maybe we can get these other countries to put some pressure on Japan to leave their ocean bound citizens alone. For the small group of humans know as Isana Fisheries Association to claim them as their property is absurd. They are the freest of all beings on the planet. We need to make sure they stay that way.
For the souls of the ocean
I was a Cove Guardian for a few days in December. After watching The Cove, I had to go. I really can’t describe the feeling. I’ve never had it before. I’m glad I followed it. I met some amazing people, was introduced to a new culture and saw some horrible things.
(Photo by Rupert Imhoff)
It was an honor to stand shoulder to shoulder with these people. Many countries were represented: USA, Japan, Germany, Sweden, Australia, and France. The dolphins have no nationality but so many think the dolphins belong to them. Even those of us that think they should swim free feel an ownership or duty that we need to protect them from others claiming ownership.
After a beautiful train ride, I joined the four guardians already at the cove. Photos
On my second day at the cove, we visited the fish market and watched a banger boat race to rescue a capsized skiff. It was a good day for the dolphins and a bad day for the fishermen. Photos
Day three brought a large pod of nearly 100 dolphins to the fishermen. The feeling of helplessness was overwhelming as I watched the well orchestrated maneuvers of the banger boats. Occasionally, a puff of black smoke is released and you know that the pod is on the run. But, the boats are too fast and the technique of the fishermen is too well practiced. The day is pretty well explained in these photos. That night, Martyn and I returned to the cove to sit with the surviving dolphins. I was hoping just to meditate while listening to them breath. It was then I realized how important these beings are to these fishermen. Security was tight and noisy. Not a place for a quiet vigil.
The next day, we arrived at the cove before sunrise. Floodlights replaced the feeble flashlights from the night before. I’m sure they thought a black ops team was going to release the captive dolphins. There is so much potential for this to be a beautiful place but then, before sunrise, the killers returned to the cove and the ugliness returned. Once the gutting barge was in place, we moved to the hill above it. Watching the blood poor into the pacific, I wondered how this was different from beef or chicken processing. I wonder if those places will let me take photos of their process. Photos
On my fifth day in Taiji, we passed the gutting barge docked near the road and stopped for some close-up photos. The boats were out and it looked like they might have something on the horizon but after awhile, they all raced in. We learned that some dolphins were transferred to a truck while we were watching the boats on the horizon. I can’t help but think the fishing boats were a decoy. If I go back, on days that the boats are out, I’ll stay in town to keep an eye on the evil that happens there. When we got down the hill, they were working on the gutting barge. We moved in without a plan other than to get some photos.
My last day at the cove, was a quiet one, a dolphin free one. We went to the Dolphin Hotel so Andy could see the pens. I saw these on my first day but the pain I felt seeing them this day was intense. I know how they get here and what happens to the ones that don’t make it this far. Photos
I left Kii-Katsuura for the Buddhist mountain village of Koyasan. I put my iPod on shuffle and the first song that came on, as the train passed Taiji Town Station, was One Wing by Wilco.
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To me, this song now represents our relation to the planet, to our relationship with dolphins specifically. I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to hear it again without tearing up.
It took four trains and a bus to get me to Koyasan. I was a little concerned about the train connections until I realized that I just needed to get off at the time my on itinerary. The Japanese are that precise. At the Koyasan information center, I was able to find a room in a temple. I drug my suitcase down the street and turned into the temple 15 minutes later. I got goose bumps over my whole body. It was nice to feel that kind of energy after the week I’d had. I was given the tour and shown my room in half understood Japanglish. At precisely 5:30 pm two men came to my room and escorted me to dinner. I was taken to a private rice paper walled room. There were four trays of food laid out in front of a cushion on the floor. I asked and was reassured that it was all for me. The care and compassion I felt as I ate, was overwhelming. The next morning I went to the meditation. I wasn’t sure what to expect. The room was ornate and freezing. A monk motioned to the mat. I sat. After about five minutes of chanting one of the five monks moved in front of the room and was talking in Japanese as the rest kept chanting. Next to the monk in front was a box of scrolls and a sign, 3000 yen. The monk approached me and placed a knotted string on my wrist, tapped in three times and said happiness. FINALLY! I found happiness. I was shown 3 little places to pray and how to add incense to the hot sand. Each had a place for money. My 15 minute meditation was over and my two men were waiting outside to escort me to breakfast. Breakfast was in a bigger room with only three trays of food. I was joined by a young German family and a monk. After touring the graves in the snow, I checked out of my room and started my journey home. Photos
"I will not abide by a whale being killed in our presence. Two years ago, the whale that was killed and featured on Whale Wars was slain 12 miles from my ship and filmed from our helicopter. I would without hesitation place my ship in harm’s way to save the life of a whale. We cannot be expected to sit idle while a child is being molested, a woman is being raped or a person is being murdered. What kind of person would simply stand by and hang banners or take pictures while a puppy or a kitten is being stomped or kicked to death? We will not do so in the presence of a clear intent to murder a whale by these despicable poachers from Japan." - Captain Paul Watson, SSCSTaking pictures is the best the the cove guardians can do when these atrocities happen. Nicole captured this video of a baby dolphin separated from it's mother and tied to a skiff. To suggest that Nicole or any guardian is sitting idle is doing them a disservice. I still haven't recovered from what I saw and wish there was more that I could do. We came, we saw, we share, we discuss, we look for solutions.
I’m going back to work tomorrow. Not sure if it’s the time change, jetlag or lingering effects of what I saw, but I’m sleeping a lot during the day. My head is spinning day and night with what to do next and trying to not lose hope for the dolphins. I’m also looking closely at my impact on the planet and how to reduce it.
No dolphins were killed in Taiji today, an empty victory. The killing continues through March and will start again next September. Taiji is just 10 percent of the total dolphin hunt in Japan. While I was in Taiji, I heard that the drive fishery had started up again in Futo. There’s no end in sight. In the short time I was there, we watched the fisherman change how they hide what they do. They are also using a killing technique that severs the spinal cord, making it safer for the fishermen and reducing the amount of blood. Activists need those blood photos and videos to enrage the masses and get them off their asses. The fishermen know this and are limiting our view and the amount of blood. Today, I saw a video of dolphins in a boat heading straight to the butcher house, still moving. I don’t want to think that they are still alive. It’s killing me. We have to stop this.
So, for me, it's back to work, keep calling embassies, write letters, poke around and see what else I can learn. I just watched the Seahawks lose so things are getting back to normal.
For the souls of the oceans
I heard this on my train ride to Koyasan. It fits on many levels and in many parts of our life. It seemed particularly fitting on this trip. It is time to wake up and start paying attention to what’s real.
In the battle to save the dolphins, it seems that there is much infighting and disagreement. I see this in many groups working together on a cause. I worry that the dolphins will suffer because of it. Some of the fighting may create stronger, smaller groups. One person I met over there, Karl Goodsell, is a marine biologist. Karl will be there for the next 3 months to talk with the locals and get an understanding of the issue from their point of view. I wish him a good journey and will be following him on Facebook.
We need all types to stop the dolphin slaughter in Taiji. We need the warriors, the artists, the intellectuals, the mystics, the scientists, dolphin lovers, economists, politicians… Everyone needs to work their angle and be a voice for the dolphins. Use Facebook and other tools to meet with like minded people. Share your thoughts and actions. You don’t need a protest day to go hold a sign or hand out fliers. Even independent bastards like me can spread the word. You never know how far that word travels and who might be listening. I believe that everything gets done via relationships. We just haven’t tapped that relationship yet. Keep working, talking, posting, make a connection.
Louie Psihoyos got to me with The Cove. Who will you inspire?
For the souls of the ocean
Three days ago, after a short wait at the point, we saw a huge pod being driven in. So many, they made a wave as they tried to flee the sound of the banger boats. For a moment, we saw them make a break but the boats are just too fast. They belch black smoke and circle the dolphins back to the direction of the cove. There is a precision to what the fishermen do with these big boats. They’re like cattle dogs or cutting horses. The keep driving the herd, I mean pod, the direction they need it to go. We moved to watch them funnel the animals into the cove. The boats are close enough to hear the banging. It’s relentless and the dolphins can’t escape it. They are driven into the cove. The dolphins swim in the netted off cove while the fishermen prepare the killing cove. They work fast. Then they start to drive the dolphins in by motoring backwards at them. The fishermen are yelling, the motors are racing, the dolphins are breathing hard and are moving in the only direction they can. Once in the killing cove, the sound of the motors is replaced by the sounds of bodies hitting the sides of boats. Then, after what seemed like hours, the banging stops and the boats move slowly back into the cove for the next group. And the process starts again. The breathing and tail slaps increase as the boats move past.
One baby circled the cove, away from what remained of the pod, looking for its mother.
The day was long, and it left a hollow feeling. That evening, Martyn said he was headed back to be with the dolphins that were in the cove. He let me tag along. I expected to go to a dark cove and sit quietly and listen to whales breathe. What we got was very different. There were people everywhere and really bad flash lights trying the light up the area. Martyn and I moved past the chatter toward the beach. A local police moved toward Martyn and asked, “Did you eat dinner?” Martyn explained the events of the day had made it impossible for him to eat. The cop chuckled. He came toward me. I don’t know if it was what we witnessed today or if it was his chuckle to Martyn, but I snapped a little when he asked me if I had dinner. I asked, “Are you the fucking dinner police? What difference does it make if I had dinner? Did you have dinner? Did you eat dolphin?” he said, no no. I have not had dinner. Oh the poor guy was hungry.
There was no quiet at the cove. You could barely hear the survivors in the water just yards from us. Cars were racing on the street, people were chattering. The shit was stirred up. It became clear to me how important this drive fishery is and how these people will protect it. It’s their livelihood.
Some fishermen above us shined flashlights on us. Martyn asked three times to please stop shining the flashlight in his face. On the third request, I marched up the hill with my surefire pointed right in their eyes and I didn’t stop until I was inches from one guys face. The man couldn’t get his video camera out fast enough. The dinner cop was back and pushed me away saying, no trouble, no trouble. I said, tell him to put the light down. OKOK NOTROUBLE NOTROUBLE. Right! Tell him to put the fucking light down and we will back away. OKOK NOTROUBLE NOTROUBLE. It was clear the first move needed to be ours. We moved back to the beach. The flashlight was still on us. After about 2 minutes the cop was chewing out the guy with the light. I realized that the cop couldn’t say anything while we were there. It would be disrespectful. I have so much to learn.
The next day, we arrived at the cove before dawn. Flood lights had been setup on the beach since Martyn and I left the night before. This made me smile. I could hear the pod. Soon the killers arrived and prepped the killing cove. It was different today the first boats left with bodies in slings to be sold into slavery. Then the gutting barge passed on the horizon.
We moved up the hill to get a view of the gutting barge, it was in clear view. Unfortunately, they saw me and moved the barge closer to shore. We still got to see blood in the water. People want to know how many or what kind are killed each day. What difference does it make? Yesterday, I saw a baby swimming without its mother. For me, that one death, a mother killed infornt of her baby, was too many. The banger boats approached to drive some dolphins out of the cove. This really made no sense to me and then I remembered the film crew. I bet they were on the boats to show how compassionate the fishermen are. Or, maybe mourning dolphins stay close and attract other dolphins? Who knows what goes on in the head of these butchers? I watched the pod break into two and then I saw the baby, swimming alone moving further away from the others. The bangers kept driving them and the baby too. From my vantage point, it looked like someone sweeping off their front porch.
Yesterday, the boats were out. They had a small pod but lost it. As we left our post, we saw a crew working on the gutting barge we swooped down on them with cameras and righteousness. They quickly moved the barge and the cars sped away. Some of us blocked a couple cars. They would not back up. I assume, not backing up is a point of honor. If one fisherman won’t back his car out of honor, how can we expect the drive fishery to end when there is no way for them to save face? This is an industry that supports this village and families and children. We need a plan for them. We need to look a couple of moves ahead. Yes, it needs to end, but let’s do this with compassion for all beings including the ones feeding their families by killing dolphins. Many won’t agree with that statement, many here don’t. I’m fine with that. I need to find my own way.
Today was my last day at the cove. It was a good day in that no dolphins were killed. It was bad day in that at least one dolphin was taking into slavery. I wonder if the boats went out to distract us, keep us watching the horizon while they loaded up a body. These are smart people. I’m using a computer and camera that are made in Japan. I believe we need to find a way through respect. That will be the direction I’ll go. I am glad that Sea Shepherd is here to raise awareness. I’m glad I came to see what’s going on.
Tomorrow, I’m off to Koyasan to hang out with monks for the day and hopefully stay in a ryokan. The next day, I fly home. Hopefully, I’m a little wiser from this trip. It’s been a water boarding of my reality. Thanks to everyone that has shown their support for me on the journey and to everyone that has been making calls and sending emails and letters. Keep up the fight! Make the calls and send the emails. Go into the consulates and see if you can strike up a conversation with someone in person. Find common ground and build from there. Calling them up saying, I wish you would all die, is not going to get you very far and in the end does the dolphins no good at all.
Also, take care of yourself. For your sanity, stop watching the updates. They don’t matter. The hunt is going to happen. If no dolphins are killed today, that’s great but in the big picture, it doesn’t matter. Ten years from now when your child asks, where did all the dolphins go? Are you going to say, they were all killed, but on December 7th, 2010 no dolphins were killed in Taiji, Japan?
For the souls of the oceans
It’s hard to find the time to do it all here. My internet has been sketchy so uploading photos and keeping up the blog and Facebook and reading other guardian’s blogs has been challenging. If you come here, have a phone with an international data plan, it’s worth it, it’s for the dolphins. I rented a plain phone with an embarrassing ringtone that works sometimes and has been nice for staying in touch with home, during the 3 hours that we are both awake at the same time.
How do I get you caught up? How do I share the bizarre emotions that race through me every second I’m here?
I’ve got some stories to share and will get them written at some point. For now, please have a look at my Facebook photos and share them with folks if they will help tell a story. At the bottom of the page, you can click on high res for better quality. It’s for the dolphins!
For the souls of the ocean
After a hot can of coffee, we headed to the cars. The first stop was to check out the Kii-Katsuura fish market. I think I may be a vegetarian now. When I get home, I want to go see where everything that I eat comes from.
The feelings driving up to Taiji were mixed, on one hand I didn’t want the boats to go out so the dolphins would be safe, on the other that’s why I’m here, to record what’s happening so that the world can see it. At first, we didn’t see the banger boats at the dock. But after a closer look, they were there. They were all in the harbor. What a perfect gift for Kim’s birthday.
At the end of the harbor, I got out of the car to take some pictures. While I was photographing the butcher house, men in 2 cars and a scooter came right at me. I was careful not to go past any of the no trespassing signs. They went running past to the banger boat. My heart sank. I was sure that they were going for dolphins and at the rate they were going this pod must be close. Martyn, Kim and I drove up the hill to see where they were headed and to keep an eye out for the other boats. So far none had joined them.
Martyn had his binoculars up and a huge smile came over his face. I can’t write what he said because he’s a Brit and his English is a little sketchy. Roughly translated, a boat has capsized. Martin radioed to the others and let them know what was happening. Soon, all of us were on the hill watching the rescue of the small craft. Again the dolphins were safe and Kim’s birthday could be a happy one.
Later that afternoon, we raced back to Taiji to witness the transport of dolphins. Apparently, one of our crew had seen a crane in position. By the time we returned it was gone. A trained dolphin or two are on their way to a new prison. I’ve heard that one of these trained dolphins sells for $300,000. When you drive around Taiji, you see a huge industry feeding a small town. Ending it will put stress on the economy. It reminds me of the spotted owl in Washington State and how efforts to save it from extension nearly wiped out the small logging community of Forks. Since the book Twilight, Forks is fine. Maybe we can get someone to write a vampire book set in Taiji.
The fact is this economy is based on an evil, immoral act and it needs to be shut down. The lucky captured dolphins are sold into slavery. Most are slaughtered and sold labeled as whale meat. Nowhere on the label is the mercury content listed. The slave market and meat sales are really just a side benefit to ridding the ocean of a fierce competitor for fish.
I have hope. Looking around the dinner table, I saw young, compassionate people from many countries, fighting for what is right and just in the world.
More photos from the day can be seen here.
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| The Ocean Arrow |
11 hours and 43 minutes went by surprisingly fast. I was in the middle seats of the triple seven so if I wanted look out the window I had to go to the emergency exit and peek out the little porthole. I watched a funky movie called Smash His Camera about a paparazzi named Ron Galella. I wouldn’t run and put it on Net Flix but there was this quote, “…many more photos are taken of celebrities than of famine, war, or other important things happening around the planet.” He added that this makes it the most important type of photography. I strongly disagree and am proud to be part of a group taking pictures of those other things. It was a fairly uneventful flight. I could see the snack cart in business class. An older man with a big coat kept getting up and filling his pockets with chips and pretzels. The guy across from me opened his window somewhere over Japan. I got a pretty good look at Mount Fuji. We circled in just before sunset and got to see the fog in the hills just like in the paintings. The sunset over the terminal was stunning. I stopped to pull out my camera but thought I should continue the march toward immigration.
When we first got off the plane, it really didn’t feel much different than the international terminal in San Francisco. Even the voice on the train was similar. Only here, the Japanese is first. Once we got off the train and headed down in to immigration, it all changed. The huge room was as stark as most all immigration entry points but English was very rare, like just “Foreign Passports.” Which makes it very easy to navigate; you just follow the words you recognize. Weaving through the line I wondered if I was seeing any other guardians. We need a hand gesture or something. I got to practice bowing with the guy queuing everyone up. Often I left too much space between me and the person in front of me. Bow. He smile and laughed a little.
I picked what would become the longest line at customs. I do that to lines. I should have moved when 3 other men joined my agent to talk with Osama bin Laden’s cousin. Then there was the woman that had to empty her luggage cart to find her passport. The guy in front of me gave me a look. I told him it was my fault, I do that to lines. He said, “I do too.” We were doubly doomed. When it was my turn, I think the guy was f’ing with me. I could not hear his broken English under his muffled voice. He gestured to my bag and asked me to open it. He then flipped through a binder with pictures, found the one with the marijuana photos and asked if I had any of that. So far this has all been very bizarre. I can’t imagine being stoned too. I said, no, we packed up my bag together and I entered Japan.
I need to pack for the train and am bummed because I wanted to tell you about the table of Businessmen, smoking and drinking and the one that looked like Elvis (hair, sideburns and boots) with the wall of blue shimmering Christmas lights behind him. And the plastic food. And how most of the women look like little girls (helo kitty?). And my hot can of coffee this morning… Tully’s from Seattle. But instead, I’ll suggest that you go read Elora West’s speech to the Japanese Media.
For the souls of the Ocean
My flight from Seattle to San Francisco left an hour late. I hate it when the jetway returns to the plane. My thoughts usually go like this; I’m going to be escorted off the plane, they are going to fill the empty seat next to me, or worse, something is broken. Then man in the orange jacket gets on carrying a headset, no clip board or bag of parts. I wonder if this one of those big, deplane issues or maybe it’s just a fuse. He was in and out quickly and the pilot didn’t tell us what the issue was so I’m sure the man in the orange jacket just jiggled something and it was all good. This is going to make my connection in SFO a little tight but better tight than to have something bad happen at 37,000 feet.
The last month or so, I’ve been hearing, you’re brave or I wish I could or… I’m not brave. I’m just following a need, a calling I guess. What I didn’t do was listen to all the logical reasons not to go and there are many. I had air miles saved up, vacation time and a supportive wife so maybe it was easier for me. If in your gut, you know you need to do something about something, follow it. Push past the barriers and logic. Do what’s right!
There really is no bravery here. I feel what is happening to the dolphins in Taiji is wrong and I need to see it for myself. People ask me, “What do you hope to accomplish?” Well, I want to end the slaughter of all marine mammals worldwide. On this trip, I simply want to see what’s happening firsthand and blog about it. The more people there getting the word out, the more attention it brings to the issue. The more attention, the easier it is to change.
Dolphins are smart and have strong family ties. They live their entire lives swimming free in the oceans with their families. This hunt, on a migration route, is like grabbing families out of line at Disney, cutting their spines and drowned them in front of their loved ones. If they didn’t drown, they are gutted alive. It’s curious to me that dolphins don’t fight back. They have the ability to but choose not to. I think we have a tremendous amount to learn from them and since they won’t fight back, I’ll fight for them as best I can. But, I’m not brave. I just can’t sit at home watching TV, thinking, that’s not right.
(We are now making our decent into SFO)
